Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Removing/Installing the Rear License Plate

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I thought I would post this since I hadn't seen anything covering it for others.

When our MS 85 arrived (mid-May 2013), we didn't have plates yet (since we ordered new custom plates). As a result, we had the nifty "TESLA" placard mounted in the rear plasti/chrome Tesla license plate cover. So when it came time to remove the placard and install our actual plates, it was not immediately obvious how to remove the two silvery caps at the top. Spinning them did nothing, and there was no mention of how they worked in the owners manual(s) that I searched.

Tesla plate 1.jpg


Turns out those little caps just snap on and off. So you'll want to pry them off gently with a small screwdriver if your nails aren't strong enough (I could only get one of the two off without a tool). Behind them was another surprise...namely Torx T20 screws. Fortunately, I had a Torx T20 screwdriver, but not everyone does...so be aware that Tesla may now use those by default for front and back plates. (I think a T15 might also fit enough to work, but you might risk stripping the nut slightly.)

Tesla plate 2.jpg


Hopefully this will help others who were initially concerned about possibly breaking something when faced with how to remove the existing Tesla placard...
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Ulmo
A followup tip is that if your Tesla placard is the plastic type (has "TESLA" in red letters on white plastic, rather than paper), you can use it behind the metal license plate to prevent your plate from scratching the paint over time. (Of course this means you can't display it in your garage or living room like I do with other old plates).
 
Mine were black oxide T15 heads with #10x5/8" threads. Only two came with/on the car so I went shopping and settled on philips stainless steel #10x3/4" to anchor all 4 corners. In retrospect #10x1/2" would might have been a better choice especially if using 4 screws.
 
Yea, I played with it and thought it might pry off but I didn't want to force it without being sure so I went by the service center and they did it for me. I didn't notice what kind of screws it had, but I guess I'll find out when my vanity plates come in. The front just had philips head screws so that was no problem.
 
Turns out those little caps just snap on and off. So you'll want to pry them off gently with a small screwdriver if your nails aren't strong enough
Thank you. This was a mystery. With your instructions, I started with a knife (use eye protection in case the knife breaks and spits blade at your eyes), and it worked perfectly.

Behind them was another surprise...namely Torx T20 screws. Fortunately, I had a Torx T20 screwdriver, but not everyone does...so be aware that Tesla may now use those by default for front and back plates. (I think a T15 might also fit enough to work, but you might risk stripping the nut slightly.)
#2 philips on mine. I have most the other bits though, so you almost got me excited :D The front plate also used #2 philips. Additional screws were also supplied during delivery (I forget where; they ended up in my "car" container inside zip lock bags, so easy for me to find, along with other stuff like Aquapel window cleaner, Aquapel windshield treatment, phone dock (premium package perk), specialized front plate holder removal bit from 3D printers thanks to a TMC user, etc.).

Front plate also had one of two existing screws covered with plastic piece, which was loose, and explains why the other screw was missing one. The front plate has slotted plate frame that plate slides into which doesn't require bottom screws because it hooks in using 3 plastic tabs. When sliding plate in, slightly bend plate non-permanently to be compliant with sliding action. It will pop into place when slid into frame completely. Same for back frame.

I used two of the four supplied extra screws to screw down bottom of rear plate, and reused top screws and plastic washers. No plastic washers were supplied for bottom screws. I'll go pick some up. The holes were slightly misaligned, so I had them all slightly loose until torque down (hand tight).

I suppose a metal TESLA frame costs extra. I can pick one up when I exchange my plates for the vanities still waiting at the DMV for me Tuesday once they open up after holiday (they require the registration paper, which came with the plates, before releasing plates; if I were the government, I'd have the factory pre-affix my vanity plates and registration paperwork before the car even leaves the factory and I wouldn't have to deal with any of this nonsense, but I'd also have plate printers in every DMV office and car dealer, and same for registration papers, and there would be no such thing as waiting for plates or even temporary plates).

I wonder how I will deal with the black screws. I could paint them white. I tried white silicon, which was messy and didn't work so I wiped it off. The primer looks more promising (using spare screws). Pictures attached. Also pictured is front plate holder removal bit. The part # is probably one of those numbers.

image.jpg
image.jpg


IMG_5473.JPG
IMG_5472.JPG
 
Last edited: