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Adjustable lowering links for Model S

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I have a few sets of adjustable lowering links for the Model S with factory equipped air suspension for sale. They are a direct replacement can be install in 30 minutes. No modifications to factory parts required and completely reversible! Message me for price.
 

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I went looking the other day and found some data I had from a lower module design. I think this was an S Class but the point is that the MB lowers at speed like MS. I had to back out my offset as speed increased to keep the car from getting too low at highway speeds. Replacement adjustable links do not have this capability and thus must be used with care.

They are a great idea and perfectly useable (just bought a set myself). They just require careful testing to make sure your not near the damper bump stops or otherwise in an unacceptable damping zone (and that the rims are not rubbing/locking up).

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That is my Model S pictured above and I love the new look not to mention it handles better too. The links are a well made quality item. I had it in at the local service center for something and everyone said it looks so much better a bit lower.
Thanks again Hai!
 
@iamsohai
I'm thinking of lowering my non-air-ride MS. Are these lowering links only for the air-ride?
@antochat
I'm getting those exact Vossen CV4's this week. Have you had any issues with them?
 
I had lowering links on my S550 & they were very easy to install. The cars looks so much better lowered (just 1-3 inches makes a big difference).
I'd like them on my S85 (but I don't have the air suspension either)
 
The links replace the stock links between the ride height potentiometers and their respective suspension arms. The stock Tesla pieces are of a fixed length while the adjustable ones have ball link ends on a piece of threaded rod (with lock nuts). Changing to the adjustable links allows the owner to change the perceived ride height thus fool the active air suspension to a different ride height. Beware that (1) lowering the car increases negative camber which is tied to extreme tire wear in the rear and (2) the suspension lowers further at speed and you do not want the car too low going down the highway (so care must be taken on how much you lower your car).

Non-active air or coil spring cars will require a change in springs to get the desired results. Normally you would have springs that are wound with a higher spring rate in addition to a shorter installed height (to lower the car). The added rate prevents the car's suspension from compressing too far under bump loads and does affect ride quality a little bit. I'm not aware of anyone that has done springs for MS but it is not a difficult task to have Eibach or a similar spring company wind a set of springs for you (if they do not already have something done). I've had springs made for race cars in the past and they are surprisingly affordable.
 
The links replace the stock links between the ride height potentiometers and their respective suspension arms. The stock Tesla pieces are of a fixed length while the adjustable ones have ball link ends on a piece of threaded rod (with lock nuts). Changing to the adjustable links allows the owner to change the perceived ride height thus fool the active air suspension to a different ride height. Beware that (1) lowering the car increases negative camber which is tied to extreme tire wear in the rear and (2) the suspension lowers further at speed and you do not want the car too low going down the highway (so care must be taken on how much you lower your car).

Non-active air or coil spring cars will require a change in springs to get the desired results. Normally you would have springs that are wound with a higher spring rate in addition to a shorter installed height (to lower the car). The added rate prevents the car's suspension from compressing too far under bump loads and does affect ride quality a little bit. I'm not aware of anyone that has done springs for MS but it is not a difficult task to have Eibach or a similar spring company wind a set of springs for you (if they do not already have something done). I've had springs made for race cars in the past and they are surprisingly affordable.

Yes, What Lolachampcar said! :wink:
 
I would like to get some lowering links but iamsohi hasn't responded to my PM. Does anyone have the specs so I could make these myself?

Do we know where he had these made and I can work with them directly?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4
 
The ball link ends look like the type used on the old webber carb installations on old Porsche and the like. They were just a tad (very small) amount larger than the ball ends on the MS suspension and ride height sensor but this small difference was taken up when the retention pin was installed. Find eight of these rod ends and some stainless all thread and you have the links. If you get that far, I can pull a front and a rear from my car and get you overall dimensions so you have a starting point on length.