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IMPORTANT: New Model S torque specification for mounting wheels

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Tesla has recently updated the torque specification for wheel mounting. The change appears to have taken place in March or April of 2013. If your car was manufactured before March 1, 2013 and you have not been in for service yet, you should check the torque on your lug nuts. I recently discovered that mine were surprisingly loose.

The old spec was 140N.m. (103 lb/ft)

The NEW spec is 175N.m. (129 lb/ft)


Here's the whole story about what happened to me...

Has your Model S suspension lost its new-car crispness?
 
The higher torque specs (175 Nm) is what I was originally quoted by Tesla in February, and has been repeated elsewhere here on the board.

Tesla has recently updated the torque specification for wheel mounting. The change appears to have taken place in March or April of 2013. If your car was manufactured before March 1, 2013 and you have not been in for service yet, you should check the torque on your lug nuts. I recently discovered that mine were surprisingly loose.

The old spec was 140N.m. (103 lb/ft)

The NEW spec is 175N.m. (129 lb/ft)


Here's the whole story about what happened to me...

Has your Model S suspension lost its new-car crispness?
 
The higher torque specs (175 Nm) is what I was originally quoted by Tesla in February, and has been repeated elsewhere here on the board.

Some of the service centers apparently didn't get the update immediately because they were still using an earlier database. Tesla is in the process of installing a new service tracking system that includes this kind of information.
 
Tesla has recently updated the torque specification for wheel mounting. The change appears to have taken place in March or April of 2013. If your car was manufactured before March 1, 2013 and you have not been in for service yet, you should check the torque on your lug nuts. I recently discovered that mine were surprisingly loose.

The old spec was 140N.m. (103 lb/ft)

The NEW spec is 175N.m. (129 lb/ft)

This is high! I guess it is function of car's weight and the monstrous maximum torque.

My Infiniti G35 is 80 lb/ft, Acura MDX - 90 lb/ft
 
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Tesla has recently updated the torque specification for wheel mounting. The change appears to have taken place in March or April of 2013. If your car was manufactured before March 1, 2013 and you have not been in for service yet, you should check the torque on your lug nuts. I recently discovered that mine were surprisingly loose.

In December, my local service center told me the spec was 175 Nm or 129 ft-lb, so I'm surprised they're calling it new... this is still when a good chunk of the service manual was still in draft form.
 
> I guess it is function of car's weight and the monstrous maximum torque. [vg]

Contact area of lugs is large. So the 125 ft lbs is spread over this larger area. Has 125 figure been changed? Note also the 'safety ring' that increases the effective diameter of lug nuts even more, should a failure punch-through ever initiate. Put your shoulder to a 24 in breaker bar and its done- ain't goin' nowhere. Truly remarkable OEM rims/lug nuts.

@mknox:

What does Rolls / Bentley have to do with ModelS?? Does TM tell you what to do with your Bentley?? If you have no clue, please take it to TM Shop!! Have it done right.

> The old spec was 140N.m. (103 lb/ft) [TRL]

This is nonsense - the spec was 125 lb/ft since last summer. You begin a thread based on a strawman.
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For comparison, Corvette is 135 ft. lbs. However, the Telsa spec isn't news. It was posted here on Feb 6, here on Mar 28,

Jerry, Tesla did a less-than-perfect job of updating the service centers on that change when it was first pronounced. Throughout the month of March the service centers were transitioning to a new service database. The earlier database still had the old torque spec listed. I guess the service centers should be paying more attention to TMC!
 
Jerry, Tesla did a less-than-perfect job of updating the service centers on that change when it was first pronounced. Throughout the month of March the service centers were transitioning to a new service database. The earlier database still had the old torque spec listed. I guess the service centers should be paying more attention to TMC!

I think your switchover date is incorrect, or they were looking in a place that was horribly wrong. When my TPMS sensors were fixed in December, the St. Louis service manager gave me the spec that's been on my wheel torque wrench since that day - 129 ft lbs. He looked it up in a service manual that was clearly marked "DRAFT".
 
I just read this thread and then had to go google "torque wrench". So, is there a size? 1/2 inch? I'm guessing you dial in the wanted torque and away you go.

Torque wrenches are sold by capacity. Get one that goes to 150 ft. lbs. rather than the 250 ft. lbs. big truck variety. The driver size will be what it is. The click-stop kind are convenient, but expensive and prone to damage. They must be stored in the relaxed position, and sent in for calibration every so often--good for shops, not so good for infrequent usage. The kind that have a bar and a ruler-like gauge are inexpensive, and likely more accurate over the long run in a low-use situation. Their main disadvantage is that they can be hard to read if you are torquing something other than wheels.
 
Torque wrenches are sold by capacity. Get one that goes to 150 ft. lbs. rather than the 250 ft. lbs. big truck variety. The driver size will be what it is. The click-stop kind are convenient, but expensive and prone to damage. They must be stored in the relaxed position, and sent in for calibration every so often--good for shops, not so good for infrequent usage. The kind that have a bar and a ruler-like gauge are inexpensive, and likely more accurate over the long run in a low-use situation. Their main disadvantage is that they can be hard to read if you are torquing something other than wheels.

Thanks Jerry. Sounds as if (as always) there isn't a "perfect" one.

Which one specifically would you recommend for use on my MS?