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Powertrain Error 287

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I just got a Powertrain Problem ID: 287 and called roadside assistance. Tesla is going to set something up to look at it.

In the mean time, they said that I could drive the car but that it might stop suddenly. The tech was sure about the level of risk of this and I expect that I'm going to get more information in the coming days. Has anyone had a Powertrain error 287 before? What did it turn out to be?

They said that it has something to do with the IOS APS REM but I get lost in the acronyms and I haven't found them online in the forum. I think that:
APS = Auxiliary Power System i.e. the 12v system

I am Guessing:
IOS I??? O??? System
REM R??? E???(energy maybe?) Module

Anyone know what IOS or REM really stand for in Tesla parlance. After working for the government for years I'm so done with TLAs (Three Letter Acronyms). I think that I have RAS Syndrome (Redundant Acronym Syndrome Syndrome).

-ben
 
voltage (outlet) = ??

I figured out the problem. Evidently the 1.5 like I have uses the motor housing as an inductor or something and to make sure that it doesn't electrocute you it makes sure that there isn't a conductive path between that and the shield for the motor.

Well anyway, I had just gotten back from driving somewhere on one of our warmest days and all the huge piles of snow around here were melting and turning the entry to the parking lot into a lake. After having driven through this and having picked up a bunch of mud splatters on my car I hosed it off. So probably I squirted in the back wheels and created a nice conductive path between the shield and the motor mount. I just needed to drive down the road a bit and dry things out. Then things returned back to normal.

So lesson learned, error 287 means that there is a conductive path between the motor and the motor shield and in extreme conditions this can be caused by deep puddles and a garden hose.
 
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Reactions: neroden
Not to doubt your reasoning deductions, but, what did service center say?

I figured out the problem. Evidently the 1.5 like I have uses the motor housing as an inductor or something and to make sure that it doesn't electrocute you it makes sure that there isn't a conductive path between that and the shield for the motor.

Well anyway, I had just gotten back from driving somewhere on one of our warmest days and all the huge piles of snow around here were melting and turning the entry to the parking lot into a lake. After having driven through this and having picked up a bunch of mud splatters on my car I hosed it off. So probably I squirted in the back wheels and created a nice conductive path between the shield and the motor mount. I just needed to drive down the road a bit and dry things out. Then things returned back to normal.

So lesson learned, error 287 means that there is a conductive path between the motor and the motor shield and in extreme conditions this can be caused by deep puddles and a garden hose.




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Just got my Roadster back from having the rear bushings replaced. Went to charge it for the first time since the repair and got the "Powertrain Problem Service required" message with ID: 287. Just to be sure I tried a second charger with the same faulting result.

Well at least the squeaking seems to have gone away.
 
It appears that the issue was condensation in the heater box. When it was dried out the charging worked fine. Of course now my car has decided that the tire pressure monitoring system is not working and throwing a fault for that. When I check the tire pressure readings all tires are reporting in with values that appear correct.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: neroden
Sparrow, sorry to hear of your troubles. I can't remember if you have a 1.5 but if you do when the humidity is high you might need a short drive to heat up the motor which is used as an inductor when charging. As for the rear bushing I had to replace mine a few years back. I hated the squeaks on an otherwise quiet car.
 
dhrivnak, I do have a 1.5. I think the moisture problem occurred when the service center washed the car after replacing the bushings. I did drive the car 10 miles home after the wash, but my car was set to charge the following morning in my garage and that is when the charging failed. As this was the first time I experienced this issue in 6 years of ownership, it was quite a surprise. Lesson learned.

The bushings not only got rid of the squeaks, it seems to drive better too. Might be my imagination, but it just feels stiffer, less sloppy.
 
I have ID 287 :( struggling to get it to charge. Have taken it for a drive to hopefully dry it out, no dice.
Also in debug have 283 BSM isolation fault and 1087. BSM isolation fault. BSM isolation fault before charge and 1087
Does the same with 120v
 
B2336330-B017-4CD8-B030-F74ABF8F535E.jpeg
No obvious signs, totally clean inside the PEM. No fuses blown. Blew an air hose in there for 10 minutes, it’s been baking in the sun for 4 hours, I drove it 40k and the battery is warm. It’s off to Tesla I go. Credit card in hand.
The one thing I can do nothing about.
 
I have ID 287 :( struggling to get it to charge.

Also in debug have 283 BSM isolation fault and 1087.

Let's try some things.
1) Check the front HVAC controller plug for moisture, dirt, etc.
2) Get a multimeter and power down the APS. Open the PEM service window and measure the resistance of the battery leads and charge port leads to ground.
3) Remove the leads and measure the resistance of the battery leads and charge port leads to ground
4) Check the charge cable connections for resistance values to ground
 
Thanks for the response. I did most I could, went from 150-95km in range mode trying everything, SC 75km away. I decided to crawl it here. Drives fault free with no codes. As soon as I get here the plugged it in and red ring. I’m waiting for their only roadster tech to come back from lunch to discuss. I only have one car and work always comes first. If I had a few days off I would have played more and trailered it here. I’ll see what they have to say, I have 40km left thanks to driving empty roads at 60km/hr do not even power limited yet.
 
They haven’t touched the PEM or fan? They emulated the HVAC and charged the battery without problems and then got the PEM fan already. It’s cleared and they are sure it’s something to do with the heating/coolant system near the front that’s tracking down to the chassis. I still think it’s the HVAC but until the part arrives I will have no way of knowing. They ran the heater for a couple of hours along with the HVAC (which I did prior to taking it in) and so far it’s not cured anything so drying it out is not the simple answer I hoped it to be. The good part is when they plug in the emulator the system charges but won’t drive. But when the HVAC is plugged back in it won’t charge but drives perfectly. They are convinced that any fault lies outside the PEM and is probably the car not allowing the emulator to drive the car because if some protocol. Still waiting patiently to get it back, although I must say supercharging has my wife looking at a model 3. She drives 100km a week and shops where there is a supercharger.
 
Still roadsterless. They simply can’t isolate the fault it works fine for 2 days, they get ready to call me and it reappears. The condenser outlet was plugged so they cleared it and cleaned everything and later that night the fault reappeared, they are diving into the heating system now. The 400v HVAC unit seems not to be the problem but possibly something close by. They want to identify the problem not just hope it goes away which I commend and they want to try and fix the part before replacing which has shocked me. While I want my car back I actually am starting to trust the 2 Roadster mechanics at my SC. They call me with updates. They also read Gruber’s newsletters and have secretly got parts from there when new parts were unavailable. He’s open to all suggestions and is teaching another tech along the way. I’m confident they will find the issue and he knows how to charge the battery when the fault arises and that’s the important thing for me right now.