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dwegmull
09-13-2011, 01:44 PM
With the J1772 adapter an easy target for thieves, I decided to make a lock that would prevent its removal from the car.
I put it together in a few hours, so it's not pretty but gets the job done. I think a much nicer version could be made using water jet parts...
It is made of 1/2" by 1/8" steel flat bar shaped to fit around the plug. A small piece of steel is welded inside the ring to fit in the area where the slide switch needs to go in order to remove the plug from the car. The hinge is made from three pieces of 1/8" thick plate along with a 1/4" diameter pin. The padlock holder is of similar construction. SInce I took those picture, I've painted it in a silver metal flake color (rattle can spray job, looks good from six feet away :wink:)

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-FFxUiaYXvHk/Tm-9eyovJNI/AAAAAAAAAxg/SICxYa_2_tw/w401-h668-k/IMAG0942.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-aaJsT2OF_1Q/Tm-9eyvtUqI/AAAAAAAAAxg/flBqYCY-y9M/w420-h252-k/IMAG0943.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6ytkHV5ch3k/Tm-9e3_690I/AAAAAAAAAxg/R-1d66M0OYw/w174-h290-k/IMAG0946.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9tySIKxQSIQ/Tm-9exlX-RI/AAAAAAAAAxg/ndQogihlkuI/w486-h291-k/IMAG0947.jpg

Would anyone be interested in a "production" version of such a lock? By that I mean a set of CAD drawings to get parts cut. Some welding or riveting would still be needed.

zack
09-18-2011, 05:26 PM
I love it. I'd go for it.

bonnie1194
09-18-2011, 05:39 PM
count me in.

Nvbob
09-18-2011, 08:20 PM
We're interested, also.

dwegmull
09-19-2011, 08:23 AM
OK, I will start designing a lock that is easier to duplicate (It's already "done" in my head ;-)). For those of you in the SF Bay Area, I will be at the EV show and rally in Palo Alto this coming Saturday (EV Rally (http://www.eaasv.org/rally.html)). I will bring the lock with me for show and tell.

Tommy
09-19-2011, 08:45 AM
OK, I will start designing a lock that is easier to duplicate (It's already "done" in my head ;-)). For those of you in the SF Bay Area, I will be at the EV show and rally in Palo Alto this coming Saturday (EV Rally (http://www.eaasv.org/rally.html)). I will bring the lock with me for show and tell.

Can a pair of handcuffs be modified? The prototype lock looks very much like 1/2 of a pair of handcuffs.

doug
09-19-2011, 09:51 AM
Can a pair of handcuffs be modified? The prototype lock looks very much like 1/2 of a pair of handcuffs.
You looking for a dual purpose device?

richkae
09-19-2011, 10:32 AM
If I had the ability to craft such a device - I would do the following:
Remove the slider and replace it with a new one - The new slider would have a small keyhole that operates a cam that fills that void - extending the length of the slider so that it can not move. The new slider could be taller than the old one to make room for the lock mechanism, but it would still be compact and entirely self contained.

zack
09-19-2011, 10:47 AM
Speaking of... all a trouble-causer needs is a philips screwdriver to remove the slider even if the lock is in place. Hmm. I think that you've revealed the answer, richkae. The slider itself should be replaced with an alternate device and the screw that holds it in place should be an anti-theft type.

NigelM
09-19-2011, 10:58 AM
Speaking of... all a trouble-causer needs is a philips screwdriver to remove the slider even if the lock is in place.

Just make the cuff that dwegmull designed wider so the slider can't be lifted up.

vfx
09-19-2011, 11:12 AM
Just make the cuff that dwegmull designed wider so the slider can't be lifted up.
Something that simple and low profile could just ride on the connector (attached permanently). Only the lock would come off. Even that could be attached to the mechanism with enough thought behind it.

richkae
09-19-2011, 11:50 AM
If you look at the screw that holds the slider - it is an anti theft type - it is the 6 pointed star with a pin in the middle.

richkae
09-19-2011, 11:52 AM
Also, if you remove the slider, I don't think you can disengage the connector from the car. You need to slide it back before it will rotate.

vfx
09-19-2011, 12:51 PM
Also, if you remove the slider, I don't think you can disengage the connector from the car. You need to slide it back before it will rotate.

Exactly!

dwegmull
09-19-2011, 03:54 PM
A replacement slider with a built-in lock is an intriguing idea... I will look around for a suitable lock. Maybe I can throw a prototype together.

Even with the security screw removed, the slider does not just come out: it needs to be lifted and slid out. I think my lock prevents such a motion, but I will borrow the right screwdriver from work and check. It would not be very hard to weld a "tongue" to the lock that would cover most of the slider.

vfx
09-19-2011, 04:31 PM
A replacement slider with a built-in lock is an intriguing idea

tm!













...



and C.

zack
09-19-2011, 04:34 PM
If you look at the screw that holds the slider - it is an anti theft type - it is the 6 pointed star with a pin in the middle.

Ahh. Mine was in the garage and I didn't look at it. Foresight on Tesla's part. 8^D

vfx
09-19-2011, 05:55 PM
Here are some existing slide locks
http://sobolocks.com/High-Security-Lock.html

2617 (http://sobolocks.com/High-Security-Lock.html)2618
cam
2619

Also the arrangement would want to be lit up by the charge port ring. As shown, I prefer combos.

dadaleus
09-19-2011, 06:37 PM
If one of you decide to have one of these made, I'll love to pay for a second one.

dwegmull
09-21-2011, 08:31 AM
Well, I tried removing the security screw with my original lock in place: the slider can be removed and the plug is then free from the car.
As a quick fix, I welded a plate that covers the slider completely.
2640

A lock that is integral to the plug and replaces the slider would be the cleanest solution for sure but it would require some intricate machining. I will keep on tinkering with it...

vfx
09-21-2011, 08:36 AM
A lock that is integral to the plug and replaces the slider would be the cleanest solution for sure but it would require some intricate machining.

Can you post a picture of the slider by itself?

bonnie1194
09-21-2011, 08:37 AM
If someone is so determined that they're carrying the right screwdriver, they probably would also be willing to cut the cable or just vandalize the car. Best security system only slows someone down.

The plate is more than sufficient - quit tinkering and make it available!! :)

NigelM
09-21-2011, 09:33 AM
If someone is so determined that they're carrying the right screwdriver, they probably would also be willing to cut the cable or just vandalize the car. Best security system only slows someone down.

Cutting the cable while it's still plugged would probably have some small consequences....
2643

bonnie1194
09-21-2011, 09:52 AM
I didn't say it was a smart thing to do :).

slcasner
09-21-2011, 09:52 AM
A lock that is integral to the plug and replaces the slider would be the cleanest solution for sure but it would require some intricate machining. I will keep on tinkering with it...
An advantage of the separate device is that it can be used with any Tesla charge cable, say at some public site. Or were you thinking that we can carry our screwdriver with us and change out the slider temporarily? :wink:

I was thinking this lock might be more like a can cut longitudinally so that it covers the slider.

zack
09-22-2011, 02:51 AM
What a great thread.

dwegmull
09-22-2011, 03:30 PM
Quick update (pictures taken after welding and cleaning but before painting):
2652
2653
One problem with the prototype that will fix on the next iteration is that when opening the lock, the bottom part can pivot down and hit the paint of the car... On the next one, I will limit the travel of the hinge to prevent this issue.

TEG
09-22-2011, 03:40 PM
I really appreciate how much dwegmull likes to "home brew" build things!
http://www.smileyvault.com/albums/userpics/12109/smileyvault-cute-big-smiley-animated-024.gif

NigelM
09-22-2011, 04:10 PM
With the plate it looks even better! Did you orientate the lock to the left for a reason? It just looks like the padlock should be on the right so that you don't have the chargeport door in the way.

Dragon
09-22-2011, 11:16 PM
Very nice! I'd need something like that too!

bonnie1194
09-23-2011, 06:49 AM
Want one! This solution is so simple, so elegant. And this would have prevented someone from unplugging my car in Reno without my okay.

dwegmull
09-23-2011, 10:00 AM
With the plate it looks even better! Did you orientate the lock to the left for a reason? It just looks like the padlock should be on the right so that you don't have the chargeport door in the way.
The orientation is random. Good point, thank you for the feedback: I will make sure the next design is "right".
By the way, do right hand drive Roadsters have the charing port on the left or right?

TEG
09-23-2011, 10:09 AM
...By the way, do right hand drive Roadsters have the charing port on the left or right?

I think the charge port door is always on the left side regardless where the driver sits.
http://cdn.egmcartech.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/tesla_roadster_rhd_press_images_main.jpg?9707a5

augkuo
09-23-2011, 11:53 AM
Great job! I think that would be preferable to my current solution which always gets my hands a bit dirty ;(

26672668

dwegmull
09-29-2011, 06:49 PM
Quick update: I've been busy with my CAD program. Still needs the plate that will cover the slider and some holes that will be used to weld the layers together. I also need to soften the pointy ends...
2726

W.Petefish
09-30-2011, 08:50 AM
In the word of Hunter Hunt, "Want."

dwegmull
10-12-2011, 07:58 AM
I received the first sample of the water jet cut parts. I'm not super happy about it and plan the following changes:
- Right now it uses a 1/4" core with 1/8" exterior plates. I plan to switch over to an all 1/8" construction. I will make it lighter and reduce the cost as there will be only one tooling charge versus two now (one per thickness).
- There is a pinch point at the hinge that needs to be addressed.
- One of the parts was not cut right (looks like it moved while the outer diameter was being cut). It's not a critical problem, it just looks a little odd and required a lot of filling to "blend in".
Pictures (the second one is next to the original prototype):
3094
3093
Please let me know what you think.

zack
10-12-2011, 09:40 AM
Looks like a step in the right direction. I agree it should be lighter-duty. If someone is determined to steal the adapter they'll likely remove the lock with a bolt cutter.

S-2000 Roadster
10-13-2011, 02:08 AM
This is shaping up nicely.

How tamper-resistant is the hinge? Seems like it could be a weak point. If the hinge is pressed into the core, then it seems possible that it could be pressed back out to open the whole thing. However, if the hinge is a solid part of the core, then it wouldn't budge without being drilled (which is going to be more trouble than bolt cutters).

malcolm
10-13-2011, 05:51 AM
If the hinged part is swinging down and hitting the paintwork, make the hinged part smaller.

In other words, instead of the hinged parts forming two semi-circles, make one part take up, say, 270 degrees of the circle and the other part with the plate is the remaining 90.

To take it on and off you slide it backwards off the connector to where the cable is. The opening only needs to be as wide as the cable, not the whole connector.

efxjim
10-13-2011, 01:23 PM
Anyone try half a set of handcuffs? Might be easy to modify.

zack
10-13-2011, 02:18 PM
If the hinge is pressed into the core, then it seems possible that it could be pressed back out to open the whole thing.

I don't own any tools that would easily let me press out a hinge pin (except perhaps a hammer and punch, which would make a lot of racket and could easily damage the plug itself.) I do, however, own a bolt cutter. I think that someone with a machinist's mentality would probably shy away from stealing the plug because, well, machinists are in demand, afaik. We're probably trying to protect our cables from being stolen by 1] vandals and 2] recycling opportunists, right? 8^D

dwegmull
10-13-2011, 05:10 PM
The hinge: it is a 1/4" pin welded to one of the exterior plates. On the next one, I plan to weld it to both exterior plates. The ends of the pin and the holes in the plates have a chamfer, creating a lot of volume for the welds.
Once the welds are ground down and painted, the pin is invisible.

Malcom,
Your idea is intriguing. I am also concerned about hitting the paint with a hard steel part. I was planning to use some kind of rubber sleeve on the bottom part of the lock, but your approach would solve this problem quite elegantly.

I guess I'm heading back to the drawing board (well CAD software, really)...

vfx
10-15-2011, 03:33 PM
Still think the slide switch lock would work.

http://wegmuller.org/v-web/gallery/MC120TearDown/IMAG0215
(http://wegmuller.org/v-web/gallery/MC120TearDown/IMAG0215)http://wegmuller.org/v-web/gallery/MC120TearDown/IMAG0215

http://wegmuller.org/v-web/gallery/MC120TearDown/IMAG0221

http://wegmuller.org/v-web/gallery/MC120TearDown/IMAG0205 (http://wegmuller.org/v-web/gallery/MC120TearDown/IMAG0221)

Slackjaw
10-15-2011, 04:12 PM
Just my 2c worth... This is what I've been using. I think it looks cool. Obviously, won't stop anyone unplugging anything, but when you're charging from a 14-50 in an RV park, there are three places where even a child could break the current flow.

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