Search results

Just trying to picture hitting a boulder on the side of the road that damages the left front wheel...

I I take it you're in a country where you drive on the left side of the road?

Could you put a cam bolt on the camber arm and get a little bit of adjustment there?

When I got my 15 last year I believe it had cam bolts on the inner side of the factory camber arms. Can you use this to get it at least closer?

Well if those tires were already worn down then I would think it could just be a camber issue. Get a set of adjustable camber and use N2itive instructions for what the alignment should actually be. Also if you're running 21's it will be considerably harder to get the tires to wear evenly.

As far as I know you need aftermarket arms to get the camber reasonable(much tighter than Tesla's listing). Though those tires look like they have a lot more than 2500km on them to be down to the wear bars or else I think you've got some toe or other issues as well...

Best educated guess: broken wire (s) in the door near the hinge for the window... The fuse message sounds like the one for the main battery(unrelated)...

Ok, just re-read your post again and I see you are talking about high mileages... My gut definitely disagrees with your reliability feelings... If you're worried about large component costs at hundreds of thousands of miles... My Prius needed a head gasket at 200K+ miles, but I just upgraded...

Good points in here already. I'll just say that as far as the costs go if you're comparing a Prius... That gets pretty iffy... My cars are a bit older, but I have a 15' S85D and a 12' Prius plugin. Both with 300K+ miles. It will depend on what you're comparing, but I assume you're going to...

My 15 S 85D has 356K miles, is almost 9 years old, if I remember correctly has over 1500 cycles... Has about 20% degradation.

Well... From my experience in the states, and my doing the work with as low costs as I can manage... Roughly speaking I'd say... $500 for one set of control arms, quite like close to that again for the other set. Probably another $300 for a low priced mechanic to change them. Another $100 for...

If you have Gen 2 handles, there are a number of options on Amazon... Just search for model S door handle repair kit.

I think you'd have to block the signal. So... You could try... Remove the battery from the key... Wrap the key in foil... Find a place in the car where the car doesn't see it. (I feel like there was a place in the back corner of the trunk where that happened once)

I believe you want to remove the center piece first. About 40 seconds in he starts and about 3 minutes in he removes your piece.

Hmm, the "being used" portion seems off to me. Sure, things will wear out from being used, but I find more worry over the vehicles that are NOT being used. In my experience, those are the ones where I end up putting money into fixing things from NOT being used...

You can report it wherever you like, but not exactly likely to make much difference. As far as I know, you'd have to contact whoever owns that parking lot and then try to get them to do anything...

Weird. Lyft approved my 2015 model S without a problem.

I would disagree on a couple of these from what I've heard but they are a bit gray areas it seems. I would expect Tesla likely strips any free supercharging if they re-owned the car at all or thought it was ever salvage. But if supercharging was turned off that they also offer a...

They shouldn't do anything to the batteries. But they will want to lift it to check the tires, brakes and suspension...

Sounds like it's just Sounds like it's just already warm enough from driving around so it doesn't need to use the heater.

It sounds to me like the car isn't getting cell service for some reason. But I suppose it is entirely possible that Tesla is checking the GPS location of the car and your phone and wanting to verify they are in the same location...

I'm not aware of anyone getting a new battery for $15K unless they asked for used, then won the lottery because Tesla didn't have any and gave them new instead... If it's an 85D I wouldn't expect any motor issues.

The first question is to verify that it had a "NEW" battery installed in 2022. It seems HIGHLY unlikely that someone would come along and say "Here, let me spend about $22K on this car for the heck of it and then sell it for about $25K". Also the fact that I'm not aware of Tesla even having...

I have no problem with them. I think the N2itive ones possibly look slightly nicer and are perhaps a bit easier to adjust but I don't think there was anything that made me justify the extra money.

Hmm, must be my memory wasn't as good. I guess they were $500. https://www.macsboost.com/product/macsboost-tesla-s-x-camber-arm/

As soon as I submitted the info the transfer was basically immediate. Maybe a few minutes. You could be fine. You should just be aware of what you might run into. I went with a non performance model because of the motors but I know I'm still gambling on when the battery decides to go and...

This is my 15 S85D MCU1 with all updates.

As far as the transfer I drove it back from Nashville to NY and during one of the charging sessions I just went into the app and followed the instructions which were basically to change the name of the car in the settings and submit a couple proofs like Bill of sale and... Something else normal...

Personally, I think that price is way too high and the miles too low but it's all subjective. The question is how much you enjoy it. As far as transfer if it works like mine did you will need to have the car to rename it as part of the proof that you have the car. From what you've said, I...

Probably true in general, but I thought I'd heard there were a few generations of the 90's and some had issues. The 85 in my second half of 2015 battery is still going at 350k miles. I have about 65kwh capacity. Does towing really get into the kwh/mile range?

There's also EV's Republic in California I've seen mention that they do 100kwh upgrades. https://www.facebook.com/share/vn5vk9ZFZYuQbhKj/?mibextid=qi2Omg

Yeah, mine was at the rear. I found the hose disconnected which was right behind the rear passenger light over the window. It could just be reached between the headliner and rear glass. There's not much of any force holding that hose on.

I'd advise going anywhere but Tesla. Try independent mechanic shops and or independent glass shops

Having glanced up at the sun through the roof in my 15' 85D the other day thinking it might be dark enough, and then having sun spots, I'm going to say "No".

I don't even know that the parts are that unique... The Brembo front pads I bought from Amazon for my 15' I believe are also listed as fitting a couple Cadillac models...

Mine seem to not have much holding the hoses on. If you feel in there with your fingers you can try to reach up and slide it back on. This is pretty much right behind the rear passenger button light just between the headliner and glass. I tried attaching a picture but all I'm getting is...

Yeah I think I bumped my rear one a couple weeks ago when hooking up trailer wiring. And it came off. Seems those hoses are just sitting on the drains. Not much holding them on at all.

I've driven my 15 and rebooted both screens at the same time.

I think that's the first one I've heard of suddenly dying in the middle of a drive from MCU1...

Always seems like a weird term. Since if anything our Teslas are more likely to be fueled by coal than that diesel truck is. (:

I bought a 2015 85D with 306K miles last year and have put 40K on since June. I'll address what I can... I believe there were changes around June/July of 2015 for the better. Mine seems to be built right about that time and I'm thinking that it appears mine has the updated battery and...

I'm on MCU1. Under the vehicle settings there's the option for unlock on park. I would assume if you didn't have that checked that the handles would not extend when you press the park button?

On my 15 it's always a single press on the park button to put it in park and/or present the handles...

Everything I've read is that it's definitely a known problem and Tesla definitely isn't covering it. Personally, I'd make sure any replacement is the latest version(I think that's "U") which will hopefully take care of it and I'd definitely investigate a used motor and independent shops.

Hmm, I've got a leak above my rear passenger window on my 15 S85D... How do you determine if the hose is clogged or disconnected? I was in that back corner attaching a trailer harness wiring sensor this past weekend(though it's also been warm enough that I've been opening the sunroof in the...

The ones on my 2015 are good but not perfect. Still times when they go off when it's not raining and don't turn on when I want. Definitely not as good as the old 2013 Ford C-Max Energi I had. Those were perfect.

Whether it's worth it is entirely up to you to decide(or in my case I call it gambling). I don't consider yours high mileage. Last year I bought a 15 S85D with 306k miles. Yes, the battery is the biggest ouch I know is coming. But from what I've seen there is not really any warning as to when...

I believe it could be done but yeah, I'm not aware of any easy way. Yes as far as getting solar it all comes down to what you pay for electricity and what you're paying for the solar and how much actual generation you get. Everywhere is different. I did a quick glance the other day with my...

It would have to be programmed to come back up. It doesn't look like Tessie currently supports charging amperage changes. Though I could picture some ugly fake human scripting too do it. Obviously the better Way to do it would be with actual scripting through better sources than I am currently...

I think the closest you can come to this is going to be playing with your installation and possibly turning down charging speeds to try to keep it under your solar output... Or *possibly* playing with something like Tessie and IFTTT or otherwise trying to set up some sort of routine that...