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Any time you touch anything on the suspension, even unbolting it and bolting the same part back in, you should ALWAYS get an alignment.

that's a standard design, pretty much anyone that makes wheels can get them for you. my personal recommendation though, is to get a set with a flat lip instead of the beveled edge, unless you want it for purely cosmetic purposes, because the beveled lips I have made before add a bit of weight...

Factory height

These are the OEM calipers. I just removed the black ones and replaced them with red ones. I'm pretty sure they will clear the track pack brakes, I'm just waiting on a friend to get some availability so I can test it on those. But these unplugged rotors have a 8 or 10 mm spacer on the caliper...

Thank you, there were some aesthetic changes I implemented on this to make them look larger. The first part was the broken pattern on the lip, if you do a solid ring around the lip it makes small wheels look small. If part of the lip is open, it looks larger. The second change was the lip is...

I had them manufactured under my brand. But I'm not a vendor here, so I gotta respect the rules and can't post a link.

This is the OG red with stek ppf.

Wasn't sure if the machining design would look good, and since these were just for the track/check clearances, figured I'd give it a try. Turned out way better than expected. These are factory specs on 19". Weigh about 3 pounds less than the 19" OEM with hubcaps on. Need to implement a design...

That's because it does a more significant weight transfer to the rear end. It also could be the tires turning over a little more as drag mode allows for more rear wheel spin. Hard to know which is which because it happens so fast, but you can feel it.

Similar happened to me at an event a few weeks ago. I'll be keeping tape in the trunk to put over the cameras and sensors when there's a money race moving forward. Lost that one because the flagger stepped a little into my lane and the car wouldn't launch even though obstacle aware...

Depends on the surface and how much time I have to stage. Sometimes normal plaid mode is faster off the line than LC. Sometimes drag mode without LC is faster, and sometimes track mode with TC turned all the way up is faster than the other two options. You need to be able to figure out the...

You definitely want a square setup. Staggered setup tire warranties are usually 50% of a squared setup on top of being constrained by product availability (depending on the size).

Cost is less than paying retail for cookie cutter designs from a lot of resellers. If it's some type of wild design that has no potential to sell to others, that would cost more. But with something like this that has more potential for sales, eating the design and certification costs isn't a...

Some of the other threads gave a bit of good feedback, so I wanted to ask for input on this wheel design as well. Just had them made, these are 19" based on the Bugatti Chiron wheel with minor aesthetic changes. This one specifically has more differences as the lip is broken up between polish...

Definitely wasn't him. He would've said something like "yeah, brakes are decent for a heavy car but it still handles like my wife moves after a night of heavy drinking". Or something like that.

The design of the track pack / zero G wheels are just heavy. I made a set of them a couple of years ago in a 19" and they were barely lighter than the 20" uberturbines, which are extremely hefty themselves.

It also states on your invoice that you are able to keep the non-warrantied parts if you pay the core charge (minus a few specific exclusions). Unfortunately I've become familiar with this specific topic since it's one part of my lawsuit, since they refused to let me have the parts I paid for...

I did see some of those, but can't remember if those steering wheels also still had the horn button instead of the mechanical setup. Did they ever offer them as replacements with the mechanical horn?

Tire warranty = keep multiple sets of extras on hand 😂

Yeah, i just went to check different coverage and the LR was over $2000/year cheaper than the plaid.

That's pretty fast...too many people downplay how fast they are because they compare it to a plaid. But 7.1 on the 1/8 is a fast car.

Sorry, I keep expecting everyone that races to be in a plaid. No idea what the LR runs

Depending on the hole, will probably be 6.2ish. you'll get better competition on the 1/8 because a lot of drag cars are set up for 1/8. Beyond that, it usually just creates unnecessary wear because the race was already over

Street tires I just run the usual 40psi on both 19 and 21. With the radials I ran 24psi at the track. Tried running lower on the radials but it didn't really help anything.

It may be different on each track, but the Vegas track specifically requires an SA2020 rated helmet or higher for sub 10's. You also have to keep your trap speed below 150, otherwise you need a chute on the car. This reason is why I usually do no prep instead of prepped events; on no prep it's...

The problem with radials is they have to be warm or they'll be worse for traction than street tires, so it really depends on the surface you're on and if you can heat them up prior to. I normally race on no prep, and the OEM 19" pirelli are the most consistent tires I've personally seen. Tesla...

1/4 was roughly the same et with a lower trap. The difference was negligible. Not enough to stress over it.

275/40/19 nt555rii. I haven't ran radials on the front, only the rear.

You probably just don't realize it because it may not be making noise due to surface conditions. It doesn't magically go away when the noise isn't present.

It's the accurate take. You ignored the entire post, and focused on an et, which was never the point, or matters in the context whatsoever.

If only I had hundreds of dragy logs showing how the car reacts to bad launches and still gets 9 second 1/4's ... Most people can't "perceive" the spinning or nerfing because it happens so quickly. But, it needs to be remembered that, traction control isn't triggered until the tires are...

Yep, the lucid lacks pretty bad on no prep. Tesla's system is good enough where I hit 1.3g on prepped and no prep consistently.

That was just OEM 19 tires/wheels. But I have runs on those, OEM 21, OEM 21 wheels with pirelli nf0, then na0, then na0 rears and lm1 pirelli, then nf0 goodyears, then aftermarket 21 wheels with OEM PS4S, and na0 pirelli rears with lm1 fronts. Then for radials, nitto rears and pirelli t0 19 on...

Again solidifying your ignorance about racing by focusing on an irrelevant point.

I personally think it's one of if not the best ever. It's unimaginably difficult to put 1000whp to the pavement with street tires on any car that exists. Couple that with the near instantaneous levels of torque, and the problem expands exponentially. It would be nice if we had more accurate...

It's not an assumption. Here is one of many completely random videos of my car at the track, you can hear it spinning up until a little before the 330' mark (before it migrates into the typical tread noise), at which point I'm normally somewhere around 80-90mph depending on the tire setup. The...

Are you being sarcastic? Or are you in a thread about drag racing and honestly don't understand?

Would like to see some more power on the top end, but that's about it. Traction is an issue up to 70-80, so they don't need anymore on the bottom for street tires.

No, just car lots and resales. If you keep an eye out, there's been tons for low 60's and some in the high 50's

We're seeing used '21 plaids in the upper $50k range now, so an old model s performance isn't even worth $40k.

I'm sure whoever that is would not be at liberty to discuss those things, and/or if the car was gutted & a dragy was accidentally running :)

NHRA doesn't have a roll cage requirement for them, but they do have a chute requirement for traps higher than 150.00 I think they should reconsider the chute requirement based on the shutdown area of the track, but also understand it's much easier to put a single rule out and make everyone...

Was probably close to that.

Was able to get 40 miles and use no energy. It's my record coming down from the ski lodge in Vegas 🤣 In the plaid.

For 0-60 acceleration the tires are almost irrelevant. Having multiple sets in both of those sizes, I would recommend getting the 19" if you're not worried about looks. The 19" is a much better ride, and you get more range on the highway with them.

Yes. Those alone will make your car stop like it should have from the factory. The OEM rotors are fine. I wouldn't recommend upgrading those unless you're doing it for aesthetics or for racing.

I have a brand new full set of the Tesla pads from an extra set of calipers if you're interested. I haven't ran the updated ones, but would recommend just getting the pfc street pads from unplugged because those are amazing.

160-170 down to 80-90. Not everyone lives in a congested area. We've got 10+ mile long straights in the desert with no traffic and no side streets. Or the Indian reservations where we have permission from the tribes to race. As for 'oem being just fine', that's not the case with brakes. The...

Have to disagree. I've had the OEM brakes and after a quick interstate run with a motorcycle and the brakes giving out on the first hard brake from 160 I immediately ordered Unplugged street pads and put them on with with OEM rotors, then Unplugged street pads with girodisc rotors, then the...

The issue was with the plaids before they changed the brake pads. The first version of pads were absolute trash. You could stand on the pedal 100% and it wouldn't lock up the tires. Since they changed the pads, it's different and they brake normally now.